A Blog from the Sea of Cortez – Part 5

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Isla del CarmenDay 9, June 8th (Isla del Carmen)

Isla Carmen has been called the most scenic of the bay of Loreto’s islands and we could see why. The island shines in the National Park of the Bay of Loreto. The marine park was created in 1996. There are five islands in the park—Isla del Carmen, Isla Catalina, Isla Coronado, Isla Danzante and Isla Montserrat.

Before the park was created there were no restrictions on commercial fishing companies and shrimp trawlers – both are now illegal in the park, but sport fishing is still allowed.

Balandra Bay at Isla del CarmenOne of the places I hadn’t been to before, Balandra Bay, is so beautiful. It’s very healthy in marine life. Not many boats stop here, so there’s not as much sun block in the water. The starfish don’t get so stressed from the chemicals in those lotions.

People don’t realize that most commercial sun block cream is toxic to sea life. It’s important to protect your skin with sun block, but make sure it’s the reef-safe eco-friendly kind.

On the land, it’s desert, but it’s full of life. It’s alive! How do plants and animals survive with no water? But they do!

Day 10, June 9th (Danzante Island)

What’s so great about our Zodiac boats is that they can get into places that big boats can’t go, like coves and caves. Some caves have roofs studded with fossils. It makes you wonder “what happened here?” The boats with their twin four-stroke 115-horsepower engines are quiet and don’t leave an oil sheen on the water.

High-speed ZodiacsJose is a very good driver and has an eagle eye for wildlife. He’s quick to spot anything moving in the water. He always points out whales, a manta, or a fish jumping out of the water.

So many people think Baja is just dusty rough desert roads – they’re surprised to see hundreds of whales of all sizes and species patrol these plankton-rich waters in what some people call “Mexico’s Secret Ocean” – the Sea of Cortez.

Danzante Island’s Honeymoon Cove is one of the highlights of our trip. Danzante Island was the meeting place for the three indigenous cultures of Baja California Sur—the Cochimi, Pericú, and Guaycura tribes. They would travel long distances to come together here where they danced for days and days.

Danzante IslandThey would be praying to their gods to supply water for their communities. They used peyote, a cactus containing the hallucinogen mescaline to get into a trance. In their hallucination they would ask for the most precious thing—water.

Day 11, June 10th (Agua Verde)

Here is a community of 300 people, with two churches and now two little stores. When you spend a little time with the locals, the fishermen, you learn a lot from these people. There are things that they can teach you. They see things that you don’t see.

Once we met two brothers there. One came to Cabo San Lucas, but he couldn’t get used to the urban energy of Cabo! Now he lives in a little ranch with four adults and three children – that’s the whole town. He taught me how to hike, how first you got to be sure you’re not going to fall.

The next day’s hike would reveal the mystery of one of Baja California’s unique and rugged survivors.

To be continued…

A Blog from the Sea of Cortez – Part 4

Read Part 3 →

Honeymoon CoveDays 5-6, June 4th-5th (Danzante Island)

I like the energy that this island has. It has so much intense, positive energy. There’s a labeled hiking trail that identifies the plants that you see along the way.

The Honeymoon Cove is the most beautiful cove in the Sea of Cortez. We snorkeled in a place outside the cove, which we decided to call “Stars Under the Sea” because the bottom was full of different kinds of sea stars. They looked so healthy, unlike in some places where people using a lot of sun block swim.

Another thing that I like about this island is when you’re hiking during sunset. Suddenly you see a flock of pelicans coming back from fishing to go to sleep. They sail in a long line low over the water.

Ana Maria always makes sure she has her own quiet time at sunset, when she meditates to find her inner peace.

Coronado IslandDay 7, June 6th (Coronado Island)

Coronado Island is famous for its colorful landscapes, and we can see why! White sand beach contrasts with green shrubs, black volcanic rocks, and the blues and greens of the sea.

During the night we realized that we always had to be conscious that on every island there could be dangerous wildlife, such as a rattlesnake—which Tio Guero discovered on his way to the bathroom! It was a reminder that these animals live here, this is their home and we need to show respect.

Tio Guero and his carne asadaTio Guero always surprises us with delicious dishes. This evening he made a delicious carne asada. Miguel always makes the best salsas, and tonight was no exception. His specialties are guacamole, pico de gallo, red salsa, and a killer chile habanero. He’s a great cook and always on top of everything.

Just before Loreto, we pulled up at beautiful Puerto Escondido just south to fill up with gas, and take a fresh shower. Then you really realize how easy you have it at home! And how much water we routinely waste.

It’s interesting to see different cultures and how they adapt to the place. The new people who came to this land, sometimes we don’t want to leave our customs, and we want the place to adapt to our needs. We sell ourselves short. The place has more to offer us than what we think we need.

Post-islands expedition meal in LoretoDay 7, June 7th (Loreto)

Everybody was tired when we arrived at Hotel Angra—a small and simple hotel in Loreto—in the morning. The first thing that people did was to take a fresh shower, turn on the air conditioning, and sleep. Back in the comforts of city life!

We had a delicious lunch of almeja chocolata—chocolate clams. The Sea of Cortez is well known for these large, tasty clams, their shells streaked with brown and the meat partly the color of caramel. Aaron was very skilled at opening and cleaning clams. He also makes a good arrachera, tender meat for tacos.

We restocked our supplies for the southbound exploration and waited for the next group to arrive.

Three new guests bring the manifest to eleven for the southbound journey. It’s no accident that people who love beauty, nature and photography predominate! This is the place to be with a camera.

Gabriel FonsecaGabriel Fonseca Verdugo is a local videographer. Hector Salgado, a filmmaker, joined Oscar on the first islands trip back in May 2009 as well as on other trips outside of Cabo Expeditions.

Don Hirschaut is the owner and president of Earth, Sea, and Sky Vacations. He shares Oscar’s passion about nature. You can read his bio here: www.cabovillas.com/staffbios.asp

The crew remained the same except for Miguel. His back’s acting up so he’s traveling tomorrow for Cabo San Lucas from Loreto by road. We had dinner with both groups.

On the next leg of the journey we were to witness the scene where indigenous people of Baja California Sur, now mostly vanished, reached out for the gods with dance… and sacred drugs from the cactus.

To be continued…